A Day in Reims...Pronounced "raunce", like "Fraunce"...

Reims is the name of the fantastic city I visited on Saturday in the heart of the Champagne Region, and it is another one of the many mysteries of the French language that I don't think I'll ever understand.  Why is -eims is pronounced  -aunce? Who knows...they didn't consult me about it.  C'est la vie.

Anyway, Nicole and I decided to venture outside of Paris and experience a lovely Fall day in Reims.  We managed to purchase the correct tickets on the exclusively French website for rail travel, and we were off!  Well, kind of...we were officially off once we hurried through on the Metro, picked up our tickets, and literally ran to the opposite end of the Gare d'Est train station to finally relax for 45 minutes on our bullet train.

After arriving in Reims, we sniffed out the nearest patisserie and had to partake in a mid-morning snack before beginning our adventures.

YUMM!!!  Escargot aux raisins (and no, there weren't snails in it...it was just in the shape of one!)

We then found ourselves wandering through the adorable little French town, searching for the huge and very hard to miss Reims Cathedral.

I am in love.

After taking a few minutes to explore the outside of the incredible cathedral and the nearby visitors center,  we decided to hit up our first champagne tour of the day --- Taittinger.

Current time: 11:05
Next English tour begins: 11:30
Distance to destination: unknown

Thanks to our speed walking turned full-on sprint (no joke, this was the second of three distinct points in the day in which we were running at full speed) and Nicole's map reading skills, we had our tickets purchased and even had a couple of minutes to wipe away the sweat and catch our breath before heading down into the dark, damp chalk caves. 

Down we go!

Our tour was very interesting, starting with the founding of the family-owned company in the 1930s (I think?) and the champagne making process.  The caves themselves are a part of an extensive labyrinth that weaves underground all over Reims and the nearby cities.  They were originally used by the monks for wine-making until good ol' Dom Perignon discovered champagne a handful of centuries ago.  The Taittinger site actually sits on the ruins of an old church that was a replica of the Reims Cathedral, but it was destroyed during the Revolution.  It was really cool because as we walked through the caves, we could see ruins of doors and tunnels from the old cathedral.

The flash makes it look really light, but it was actually dark and creepy down there.

This is approx 72,000 bottles of champagne!

This is one of 3 doors that still exist from the original church

After enjoying a glass of the local produce that had undergone double fermentation and chilled out in a cave for 5 or so years (thanks, Nicole!), we headed back to the Cathedral to take a QUICK tour of the inside before heading on the train to Epernay.

The next couple of pictures are vineyards taken on the train from Reims to Epernay.

Once in Epernay, we killed an hour or so at lunch before heading over to our tour at the granddaddy of champagne houses (and the largest producer in the world) --- Moet & Chandon.  I am really glad we were able to go on this tour because although it is generally the same process as all of the other champagne houses, it is obviously done on a much larger scale.  The tour started in Moet's house, and then we traveled down into the caves and tunnels that he actually started digging himself in the 18th century.  Pretty crazy!!

This hallway was gated and holds all of their vintage champagnes dating back to the late 1800's!  The bottle at the end is the last vintage that was in 2003

 We were not able to fully enjoy the tour, however, because our return train to Paris was scheduled to leave Epernay at 16:31, and the tour began at 15:30...therefore, we were constantly checking our watches AND had to literally chug our two glasses of champagne at the end in order to make the train (Our tour was actually supposed to start at 15:15 which would have been PERFECT, but for whatever reason, it didn't...grrr).  So, we gulped down the flutes of Brut and Rose, and the third sprint of the day commenced...through the caves, a wrong turn into the kitchen, through some more caves....

 And look who we saw just chillin (literally) in a crate?  The Dom!

We were literally running by this trying to find the exit..had to stop and take a couple of pictures...and continue running again

...backtracking and weaving through the maze of hallways and up the stairs, right down the middle of the boutique, down the street, through a large garden, across a road, and finally at the platform...with 5 minutes to spare.  And let me just tell you, a large lunch + apple pie a la mode for dessert + two chugged glasses of champagne + running does not equal a very pretty picture.  But, alas, we were finally safe and sound on the train back home.  That is, of course, after the man who checked our tickets told us that we weren't allowed to be on that train because we had paid the special student price (under 25 for a few more months...whoop!) even though our tickets had that exact train, date, and time printed on them...I guess he took pity on us because he didn't come back by and kick us off at the next stop.

Phew, what a day!!  It was a crazy whirlwind, but SO MUCH FUN!!!  It was also nice to get out of Paris for a little bit and see some of the beautiful Fall French countryside.

Oh, and I can leave you with this fun story...so, on Friday when I came home from class, I was mid shower -- as in suddsing my hair with shampoo -- when all of the sudden the water turned from scalding hot (just the way I like it) to ice cold.  I will spare you the graphic details, but I ended up having to finish out that shower with the fear that I had developed hypothermia or something.  Long story short, the construction workers who are working on my building taped over the large ventilation pipe for my hot water heater, therefore, the pilot light extinguishes after about 20 seconds because it is not getting the proper ventilation.  Awesome....SO, I am in my 4th day without hot water, and I am having to heat up lots of pots on the stove and sponge-bathe in about 2 inches of lukewarm water.

Isn't it sad?  All of my pots of steaming hot water, ready to be poured into the tub

The culprit!

Not the best predicament to be in when the lovely (but chilly!) Autumn season is upon us.  It is a little bit fun, though, because it makes me feel like Marie Antoinette or something.  The workers said they are unable to remove the paper until tomorrow, so I will have one more night with a very cold and not so satisfying shower/bath.  Oh well, things could definitely be worse!

Random side note:  I have reached an alarming point in my journey where I now consider an entire baguette as one serving of bread.  Translation:  I have lost count the number of times that I have ordered a baguette (or any other delicious pastry) at a boulangerie and it is gone in less than 15 minutes...
 
- a tout à l’heure!

Back Up And Running

Well, it has taken a little bit of time, but I am officially back up and running again at full speed.  Thanks in LARGE part to my absolutely incredible mother, just about everything has been replaced.  My mom spent her one day off (between rescuing me that fateful weekend and working her previously scheduled trip to Paris last weekend) running around getting me a new camera, upgrading her Blackberry so that I could have her old one, and gathering together the rest of the laundry list of items that I had requested.  I seriously could not have gone through this without her.  Mom, I love you SO MUCH and thank you from the bottom of my heart for everything you do.  Also, thank you to everyone who sent me encouraging emails...those helped me to keep on truckin' more than y'all will ever know.

Although the material items have been replaced, the emotional scars will obviously take much longer to heal.  For example, the other night I had a late French class and didn't start my journey home until a little bit after 21:00...when I almost beat the ever living &*^$ out of a guy with my umbrella who said "Bonjour" and started walking towards me when I was on my street.  It was kinda sketchy, but who knows, he could have been asking me where the Metro was or something.  I didn't really care...I had my umbrella extended and up over my head like a sword in less than .05 seconds.  I guess my reflexes have improved!  I am just frustrated, though, because as I walked home that night (and really any time I am out even remotely close to sunset), I cant help but look around me and see all of the people out and about, enjoying the night air and peacefully walking around...as I am practically running by them with an umbrella -- or some other self defense weapon -- ready to attack at any moment.  Also, I have developed a minor case of  OCD when it comes to the locks to the door of my apartment.  I double lock the first lock, and lock the lock that locks the double lock, then check the first lock and make sure it is secure.  Go it?  Yeah, neither do I.  Then,  as I walk to class, my mind is racing and I stew over  whether or not the door is locked and secure, and I think of all the possible scenarios if they did figure out how to get in...but then again, I don't think the fiery Portuguese lady who watches over the building would ever let any sketchy looking characters in...right?  UGH!  Why should I have to live my life like this??  I know the paranoia will fade, and it has a little bit in the past week, but I still get freaked out.

So, now that I got that rant out of my system, I have made a pledge to myself, and y'all, that I will no longer schlep around and feel sorry for myself that this happened.  There is nothing I can do about it, so I just need to move on and be more vigilant.  And you can see for yourself what a week has done!

Sunday night after the incident, while waiting to get back in to my apartment ...crazy homeless bag lady wearing a ten-sizes-too-small jacket, and rocking stretched out "skinny" jeans with my new kicks.

On my way to meet Mom at her hotel last Friday!

I hope you can notice an improvement...that second picture is kind of awkward...I was trying to take in the mirror in my building while the construction workers were walking back and forth.  Anyway, so yes, that is the new and improved me!

Last week was full of more culinary fun, such as filleting a couple more fish (blood and guts and fins went everywhere!!!), making a scrumptious pear and currant cake, and watching the chef make macaroons in demo.  YUMMM!!!!  We actually don't make macaroons until intermediate pastry, but we get to taste them in basic, which is the most important part!

Poached Hake Steaks with Hollandaise Sauce by yours truly

MACAROONS!!!  And they were SOOOOO much better then Laduree!

The best cake we have made so far...it is pear and current with a soft pastry crust and meringue on top...we made it on Wednesday, and 3/4 of it was gone by Thursday.  You think I am kidding...

Brill Fillets in a White Wine Sauce.  The chef said the sauce was perfect and the fish was cooked just right...but I definitely need to work on turning potatoes...yikes.

Mom came in on Friday, and we had a wonderful weekend!  It was kinda rainy and overcast on Friday and Saturday, but that didn't stop us from wandering all over the city.  In my never ending search for delicious, sweaty Mexican food, we heard about a place called Fajitas that's run by 2 Mexican-Americans, so it HAD to be delicious and sweaty, right?!  Well, we went for dinner with Nicole, and so far, I would say it is the closest that I have found to the good stuff back home.  We indulged in a fantastic three course meal complete with margs (Nicole and I) and beer (Mom), to help us cope with the nasty, rainy Paris evening.  

Looks like we just stepped into Mexico.  Ole!

Ignore the bright-ness of this picture...I am still getting used to the different settings on my new camera

On Saturday, Mom and I decided to hit up almost every culinary store in Paris to try and find a knife case for my knifes.  The search continues because I didn't find a case that I was in love with, but we went to some really fun stores in the process!

Mom and I in front of Hotel de Ville

 

This is one of the stores that Julia Child used to shop --- culinary heaven!

Those are only a couple of the stores, but you could seriously spend a day in each one because they have so many great gadgets.  I was also surprised at how affordable everything was.  I guess I just expected it to be ridiculously overpriced, but it actually wasn't, which is a huge plus!  Like I said, I am still on a hunt to find the perfect knife case, but we didn't walk away empty-handed from our shopping adventures...

The start of my French culinary collection...I CAN'T WAIT to use it!!

Mom and I enjoying our afternoon crepes...

After a long day full of lots of walking, Mom and I decided to cook dinner at home and relax for the rest of the evening.  It was perfect!  I made French Onion soup, the first recipe I have learned at school and reproduced on my own, and I think it turned out pretty well. 

I'll leave y'all with a couple of pictures from the Paris-Versailles race...thanks for the pics, Nicole!!

Nicole and I posing in front of the elevation map the night before the race...and let me tell you, those were some SERIOUS hills!

Almost to the starting line...literally at the base of the Eiffel Tower...sorry, I can't figure out how to rotate the picture, so just turn your head!

10 miles later --- and through the freezing temps, wind, and rain, we made it!   Since we had to go out the day before and purchase a completely new ensemble for myself (from my shirts to my shoes), we decided to be really cool and get matching shirts.

- à tout à l’heure!