Monday, October 11, 2010

A Day in Reims...Pronounced "raunce", like "Fraunce"...

Reims is the name of the fantastic city I visited on Saturday in the heart of the Champagne Region, and it is another one of the many mysteries of the French language that I don't think I'll ever understand.  Why is -eims is pronounced  -aunce? Who knows...they didn't consult me about it.  C'est la vie.

Anyway, Nicole and I decided to venture outside of Paris and experience a lovely Fall day in Reims.  We managed to purchase the correct tickets on the exclusively French website for rail travel, and we were off!  Well, kind of...we were officially off once we hurried through on the Metro, picked up our tickets, and literally ran to the opposite end of the Gare d'Est train station to finally relax for 45 minutes on our bullet train.



After arriving in Reims, we sniffed out the nearest patisserie and had to partake in a mid-morning snack before beginning our adventures.

YUMM!!!  Escargot aux raisins (and no, there weren't snails in it...it was just in the shape of one!)
We then found ourselves wandering through the adorable little French town, searching for the huge and very hard to miss Reims Cathedral.




I am in love.

After taking a few minutes to explore the outside of the incredible cathedral and the nearby visitors center,  we decided to hit up our first champagne tour of the day --- Taittinger.

Current time: 11:05
Next English tour begins: 11:30
Distance to destination: unknown

Thanks to our speed walking turned full-on sprint (no joke, this was the second of three distinct points in the day in which we were running at full speed) and Nicole's map reading skills, we had our tickets purchased and even had a couple of minutes to wipe away the sweat and catch our breath before heading down into the dark, damp chalk caves. 



Down we go!
Our tour was very interesting, starting with the founding of the family-owned company in the 1930s (I think?) and the champagne making process.  The caves themselves are a part of an extensive labyrinth that weaves underground all over Reims and the nearby cities.  They were originally used by the monks for wine-making until good ol' Dom Perignon discovered champagne a handful of centuries ago.  The Taittinger site actually sits on the ruins of an old church that was a replica of the Reims Cathedral, but it was destroyed during the Revolution.  It was really cool because as we walked through the caves, we could see ruins of doors and tunnels from the old cathedral.
The flash makes it look really light, but it was actually dark and creepy down there.
This is approx 72,000 bottles of champagne!
This is one of 3 doors that still exist from the original church


After enjoying a glass of the local produce that had undergone double fermentation and chilled out in a cave for 5 or so years (thanks, Nicole!), we headed back to the Cathedral to take a QUICK tour of the inside before heading on the train to Epernay.





The next couple of pictures are vineyards taken on the train from Reims to Epernay.




Once in Epernay, we killed an hour or so at lunch before heading over to our tour at the granddaddy of champagne houses (and the largest producer in the world) --- Moet & Chandon.  I am really glad we were able to go on this tour because although it is generally the same process as all of the other champagne houses, it is obviously done on a much larger scale.  The tour started in Moet's house, and then we traveled down into the caves and tunnels that he actually started digging himself in the 18th century.  Pretty crazy!!
This hallway was gated and holds all of their vintage champagnes dating back to the late 1800's!  The bottle at the end is the last vintage that was in 2003


 We were not able to fully enjoy the tour, however, because our return train to Paris was scheduled to leave Epernay at 16:31, and the tour began at 15:30...therefore, we were constantly checking our watches AND had to literally chug our two glasses of champagne at the end in order to make the train (Our tour was actually supposed to start at 15:15 which would have been PERFECT, but for whatever reason, it didn't...grrr).  So, we gulped down the flutes of Brut and Rose, and the third sprint of the day commenced...through the caves, a wrong turn into the kitchen, through some more caves....

 And look who we saw just chillin (literally) in a crate?  The Dom!
We were literally running by this trying to find the exit..had to stop and take a couple of pictures...and continue running again

...backtracking and weaving through the maze of hallways and up the stairs, right down the middle of the boutique, down the street, through a large garden, across a road, and finally at the platform...with 5 minutes to spare.  And let me just tell you, a large lunch + apple pie a la mode for dessert + two chugged glasses of champagne + running does not equal a very pretty picture.  But, alas, we were finally safe and sound on the train back home.  That is, of course, after the man who checked our tickets told us that we weren't allowed to be on that train because we had paid the special student price (under 25 for a few more months...whoop!) even though our tickets had that exact train, date, and time printed on them...I guess he took pity on us because he didn't come back by and kick us off at the next stop.

Phew, what a day!!  It was a crazy whirlwind, but SO MUCH FUN!!!  It was also nice to get out of Paris for a little bit and see some of the beautiful Fall French countryside.

Oh, and I can leave you with this fun story...so, on Friday when I came home from class, I was mid shower -- as in suddsing my hair with shampoo -- when all of the sudden the water turned from scalding hot (just the way I like it) to ice cold.  I will spare you the graphic details, but I ended up having to finish out that shower with the fear that I had developed hypothermia or something.  Long story short, the construction workers who are working on my building taped over the large ventilation pipe for my hot water heater, therefore, the pilot light extinguishes after about 20 seconds because it is not getting the proper ventilation.  Awesome....SO, I am in my 4th day without hot water, and I am having to heat up lots of pots on the stove and sponge-bathe in about 2 inches of lukewarm water.

Isn't it sad?  All of my pots of steaming hot water, ready to be poured into the tub
The culprit!
Not the best predicament to be in when the lovely (but chilly!) Autumn season is upon us.  It is a little bit fun, though, because it makes me feel like Marie Antoinette or something.  The workers said they are unable to remove the paper until tomorrow, so I will have one more night with a very cold and not so satisfying shower/bath.  Oh well, things could definitely be worse!

Random side note:  I have reached an alarming point in my journey where I now consider an entire baguette as one serving of bread.  Translation:  I have lost count the number of times that I have ordered a baguette (or any other delicious pastry) at a boulangerie and it is gone in less than 15 minutes...
 
- a tout à l’heure!

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