Monday, October 11, 2010

A Day in Reims...Pronounced "raunce", like "Fraunce"...

Reims is the name of the fantastic city I visited on Saturday in the heart of the Champagne Region, and it is another one of the many mysteries of the French language that I don't think I'll ever understand.  Why is -eims is pronounced  -aunce? Who knows...they didn't consult me about it.  C'est la vie.

Anyway, Nicole and I decided to venture outside of Paris and experience a lovely Fall day in Reims.  We managed to purchase the correct tickets on the exclusively French website for rail travel, and we were off!  Well, kind of...we were officially off once we hurried through on the Metro, picked up our tickets, and literally ran to the opposite end of the Gare d'Est train station to finally relax for 45 minutes on our bullet train.



After arriving in Reims, we sniffed out the nearest patisserie and had to partake in a mid-morning snack before beginning our adventures.

YUMM!!!  Escargot aux raisins (and no, there weren't snails in it...it was just in the shape of one!)
We then found ourselves wandering through the adorable little French town, searching for the huge and very hard to miss Reims Cathedral.




I am in love.

After taking a few minutes to explore the outside of the incredible cathedral and the nearby visitors center,  we decided to hit up our first champagne tour of the day --- Taittinger.

Current time: 11:05
Next English tour begins: 11:30
Distance to destination: unknown

Thanks to our speed walking turned full-on sprint (no joke, this was the second of three distinct points in the day in which we were running at full speed) and Nicole's map reading skills, we had our tickets purchased and even had a couple of minutes to wipe away the sweat and catch our breath before heading down into the dark, damp chalk caves. 



Down we go!
Our tour was very interesting, starting with the founding of the family-owned company in the 1930s (I think?) and the champagne making process.  The caves themselves are a part of an extensive labyrinth that weaves underground all over Reims and the nearby cities.  They were originally used by the monks for wine-making until good ol' Dom Perignon discovered champagne a handful of centuries ago.  The Taittinger site actually sits on the ruins of an old church that was a replica of the Reims Cathedral, but it was destroyed during the Revolution.  It was really cool because as we walked through the caves, we could see ruins of doors and tunnels from the old cathedral.
The flash makes it look really light, but it was actually dark and creepy down there.
This is approx 72,000 bottles of champagne!
This is one of 3 doors that still exist from the original church


After enjoying a glass of the local produce that had undergone double fermentation and chilled out in a cave for 5 or so years (thanks, Nicole!), we headed back to the Cathedral to take a QUICK tour of the inside before heading on the train to Epernay.





The next couple of pictures are vineyards taken on the train from Reims to Epernay.




Once in Epernay, we killed an hour or so at lunch before heading over to our tour at the granddaddy of champagne houses (and the largest producer in the world) --- Moet & Chandon.  I am really glad we were able to go on this tour because although it is generally the same process as all of the other champagne houses, it is obviously done on a much larger scale.  The tour started in Moet's house, and then we traveled down into the caves and tunnels that he actually started digging himself in the 18th century.  Pretty crazy!!
This hallway was gated and holds all of their vintage champagnes dating back to the late 1800's!  The bottle at the end is the last vintage that was in 2003


 We were not able to fully enjoy the tour, however, because our return train to Paris was scheduled to leave Epernay at 16:31, and the tour began at 15:30...therefore, we were constantly checking our watches AND had to literally chug our two glasses of champagne at the end in order to make the train (Our tour was actually supposed to start at 15:15 which would have been PERFECT, but for whatever reason, it didn't...grrr).  So, we gulped down the flutes of Brut and Rose, and the third sprint of the day commenced...through the caves, a wrong turn into the kitchen, through some more caves....

 And look who we saw just chillin (literally) in a crate?  The Dom!
We were literally running by this trying to find the exit..had to stop and take a couple of pictures...and continue running again

...backtracking and weaving through the maze of hallways and up the stairs, right down the middle of the boutique, down the street, through a large garden, across a road, and finally at the platform...with 5 minutes to spare.  And let me just tell you, a large lunch + apple pie a la mode for dessert + two chugged glasses of champagne + running does not equal a very pretty picture.  But, alas, we were finally safe and sound on the train back home.  That is, of course, after the man who checked our tickets told us that we weren't allowed to be on that train because we had paid the special student price (under 25 for a few more months...whoop!) even though our tickets had that exact train, date, and time printed on them...I guess he took pity on us because he didn't come back by and kick us off at the next stop.

Phew, what a day!!  It was a crazy whirlwind, but SO MUCH FUN!!!  It was also nice to get out of Paris for a little bit and see some of the beautiful Fall French countryside.

Oh, and I can leave you with this fun story...so, on Friday when I came home from class, I was mid shower -- as in suddsing my hair with shampoo -- when all of the sudden the water turned from scalding hot (just the way I like it) to ice cold.  I will spare you the graphic details, but I ended up having to finish out that shower with the fear that I had developed hypothermia or something.  Long story short, the construction workers who are working on my building taped over the large ventilation pipe for my hot water heater, therefore, the pilot light extinguishes after about 20 seconds because it is not getting the proper ventilation.  Awesome....SO, I am in my 4th day without hot water, and I am having to heat up lots of pots on the stove and sponge-bathe in about 2 inches of lukewarm water.

Isn't it sad?  All of my pots of steaming hot water, ready to be poured into the tub
The culprit!
Not the best predicament to be in when the lovely (but chilly!) Autumn season is upon us.  It is a little bit fun, though, because it makes me feel like Marie Antoinette or something.  The workers said they are unable to remove the paper until tomorrow, so I will have one more night with a very cold and not so satisfying shower/bath.  Oh well, things could definitely be worse!

Random side note:  I have reached an alarming point in my journey where I now consider an entire baguette as one serving of bread.  Translation:  I have lost count the number of times that I have ordered a baguette (or any other delicious pastry) at a boulangerie and it is gone in less than 15 minutes...
 
- a tout à l’heure!

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Back Up And Running

Well, it has taken a little bit of time, but I am officially back up and running again at full speed.  Thanks in LARGE part to my absolutely incredible mother, just about everything has been replaced.  My mom spent her one day off (between rescuing me that fateful weekend and working her previously scheduled trip to Paris last weekend) running around getting me a new camera, upgrading her Blackberry so that I could have her old one, and gathering together the rest of the laundry list of items that I had requested.  I seriously could not have gone through this without her.  Mom, I love you SO MUCH and thank you from the bottom of my heart for everything you do.  Also, thank you to everyone who sent me encouraging emails...those helped me to keep on truckin' more than y'all will ever know.

Although the material items have been replaced, the emotional scars will obviously take much longer to heal.  For example, the other night I had a late French class and didn't start my journey home until a little bit after 21:00...when I almost beat the ever living &*^$ out of a guy with my umbrella who said "Bonjour" and started walking towards me when I was on my street.  It was kinda sketchy, but who knows, he could have been asking me where the Metro was or something.  I didn't really care...I had my umbrella extended and up over my head like a sword in less than .05 seconds.  I guess my reflexes have improved!  I am just frustrated, though, because as I walked home that night (and really any time I am out even remotely close to sunset), I cant help but look around me and see all of the people out and about, enjoying the night air and peacefully walking around...as I am practically running by them with an umbrella -- or some other self defense weapon -- ready to attack at any moment.  Also, I have developed a minor case of  OCD when it comes to the locks to the door of my apartment.  I double lock the first lock, and lock the lock that locks the double lock, then check the first lock and make sure it is secure.  Go it?  Yeah, neither do I.  Then,  as I walk to class, my mind is racing and I stew over  whether or not the door is locked and secure, and I think of all the possible scenarios if they did figure out how to get in...but then again, I don't think the fiery Portuguese lady who watches over the building would ever let any sketchy looking characters in...right?  UGH!  Why should I have to live my life like this??  I know the paranoia will fade, and it has a little bit in the past week, but I still get freaked out.

So, now that I got that rant out of my system, I have made a pledge to myself, and y'all, that I will no longer schlep around and feel sorry for myself that this happened.  There is nothing I can do about it, so I just need to move on and be more vigilant.  And you can see for yourself what a week has done!

Sunday night after the incident, while waiting to get back in to my apartment ...crazy homeless bag lady wearing a ten-sizes-too-small jacket, and rocking stretched out "skinny" jeans with my new kicks.
On my way to meet Mom at her hotel last Friday!
I hope you can notice an improvement...that second picture is kind of awkward...I was trying to take in the mirror in my building while the construction workers were walking back and forth.  Anyway, so yes, that is the new and improved me!

Last week was full of more culinary fun, such as filleting a couple more fish (blood and guts and fins went everywhere!!!), making a scrumptious pear and currant cake, and watching the chef make macaroons in demo.  YUMMM!!!!  We actually don't make macaroons until intermediate pastry, but we get to taste them in basic, which is the most important part!

Poached Hake Steaks with Hollandaise Sauce by yours truly
MACAROONS!!!  And they were SOOOOO much better then Laduree!
The best cake we have made so far...it is pear and current with a soft pastry crust and meringue on top...we made it on Wednesday, and 3/4 of it was gone by Thursday.  You think I am kidding...
Brill Fillets in a White Wine Sauce.  The chef said the sauce was perfect and the fish was cooked just right...but I definitely need to work on turning potatoes...yikes.
Mom came in on Friday, and we had a wonderful weekend!  It was kinda rainy and overcast on Friday and Saturday, but that didn't stop us from wandering all over the city.  In my never ending search for delicious, sweaty Mexican food, we heard about a place called Fajitas that's run by 2 Mexican-Americans, so it HAD to be delicious and sweaty, right?!  Well, we went for dinner with Nicole, and so far, I would say it is the closest that I have found to the good stuff back home.  We indulged in a fantastic three course meal complete with margs (Nicole and I) and beer (Mom), to help us cope with the nasty, rainy Paris evening.  

Looks like we just stepped into Mexico.  Ole!
Ignore the bright-ness of this picture...I am still getting used to the different settings on my new camera
On Saturday, Mom and I decided to hit up almost every culinary store in Paris to try and find a knife case for my knifes.  The search continues because I didn't find a case that I was in love with, but we went to some really fun stores in the process!
Mom and I in front of Hotel de Ville
 
This is one of the stores that Julia Child used to shop --- culinary heaven!


Those are only a couple of the stores, but you could seriously spend a day in each one because they have so many great gadgets.  I was also surprised at how affordable everything was.  I guess I just expected it to be ridiculously overpriced, but it actually wasn't, which is a huge plus!  Like I said, I am still on a hunt to find the perfect knife case, but we didn't walk away empty-handed from our shopping adventures...
The start of my French culinary collection...I CAN'T WAIT to use it!!
Mom and I enjoying our afternoon crepes...



After a long day full of lots of walking, Mom and I decided to cook dinner at home and relax for the rest of the evening.  It was perfect!  I made French Onion soup, the first recipe I have learned at school and reproduced on my own, and I think it turned out pretty well. 



I'll leave y'all with a couple of pictures from the Paris-Versailles race...thanks for the pics, Nicole!!

Nicole and I posing in front of the elevation map the night before the race...and let me tell you, those were some SERIOUS hills!
Almost to the starting line...literally at the base of the Eiffel Tower...sorry, I can't figure out how to rotate the picture, so just turn your head!



10 miles later --- and through the freezing temps, wind, and rain, we made it!   Since we had to go out the day before and purchase a completely new ensemble for myself (from my shirts to my shoes), we decided to be really cool and get matching shirts.
- à tout à l’heure!
 

Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Why Do Bad Things Happen to Good People?

I really don't even know where to begin with this post, but I maybe some of you are wondering why I haven't been around for a little while.  Well, I was super busy with school last week, and on Friday night, my life came to a screeching halt...

Nicole and I were mugged while we were walking home from dinner.  I met her at her apartment directly after class on Friday afternoon, and we decided to grab some food at a little cafe across the street from her building.  We left the restaurant around 21:15 and noticed 2 young guys with a mangy dog hanging out in front of the park next to her apartment.  The park was closed, so we had to walk around (it was well-lit the entire way) in order to get to the door.  Literally five steps from her front door, they attacked us.  I don't really remember exactly what happened, aside from the fact that I know I was clutching my purse under my arm, and I have a pretty sizable bruise on my bicep, so I can only piece together that one of the guys came from directly behind me and hit my upper arm really hard causing it to go limp...therefore, I am assuming it was pretty easy for him to grab my purse and run.  I turned around to see that the second guy had his arms wrapped around Nicole, but she was able to wriggle out from his grip and he ran off without her purse.  We were both obviously in serious shock, and fortunately, the lady she lives with was home and took us to the police station.  We were there for a while, giving statements and looking at mug shots, and we were finally able to leave and go back to her apartment around midnight (don't even get me started on the police station here...).

My life was in that purse.  Literally.
  • Wallet --- 2 credit cards, 1 debit card, somewhere between 10-15 euros, UGA ID, Visa giftcard, the spare key to my apartment, both sets of my locker keys for school
  • Blackberry AKA my sole form of communication to the outside world
  • This post doesn't have any pictures because they took my camera --- I had not uploaded anything since last Sunday, so all of the pictures of dishes that I made last week are gone, along with other random pictures that I took as I wandered the streets of Paris.
  •  My 2nd generation iPod, affectionately known as Eunice --- I loved that thing because all it did was exactly what it was supposed to.  Play music.  Period.
  • My umbrella, sunglasses, Bert's Bees chapstick, pack of blank index cards that I had purchased earlier in the day, HAND SANITIZER!!!
  • The KEY to my apartment --- if you recall above, the spare was in my wallet.  Why?  You ask?  Call me naive or whatever you want, but I am by myself here and therefore don't have anyone to give the spare to...although, I jokingly told Mom when I moved in that I should give it to her because it would be easier for her to fly over here and give it to me...little did we know that that would prove to be true.  Anyway, my thought process with the key was that I would  never go anywhere without my wallet, so why not put the spare in there?  Stupid, whatever, I didn't think of people actually stealing my whole freaking purse.
  • and last, but certainly not least, the thing I am most devastated about --- MY JOURNAL.  That's right.  My personal thoughts, feelings, and experiences that I have religiously and meticulously documented everyday since I have been here.  My journal had not seen the light of day in weeks, but I took it to class with me earlier on Friday to catch up on some entries, and forgot that it was still in my purse.  It upsets me every time I think about it.  It was a prefect little navy blue Moleskin journal that my dear friend, Emilia, gave to me before I left because it was the same type of journal that Hemingway and Van Gogh used...AND I had almost completely filled it up, so everytime I opened it, I got excited because the number of blank pages were rapidly decreasing.  I couldn't wait to finish it and put it on my bookshelf, so that I could start over again with a new, blank one.
I still can't quite figure out why I was carrying all of that stuff with me that night because I never usually do...in fact, I had forgotten my camera all week at my apartment, so I had been taking pictures with my phone, but I had changed purses Friday afternoon and finally remembered to grab it (@$%&!!!!).  The other thought that pours salt on the wound every time I think about it is that nine times out of ten, my camera, keys, and cell phone are in my pockets rather than my purse because those are the things that I use most often...of course, that was not the case on Friday night.  I feel forever indebted to my mom, Auntie Pam, and Jonathan because they were able to have my credit cards and phone deactivated within 30 - 45 minutes of my purse being taken, therefore we feel confident that none of my personal information was seriously compromised...hopefully...  
I know I am not a saint, but I really try my best to be a good person, and I can say with certainty that I have not stolen candy from a baby, or pushed any little old Parisian ladies into the street, so I can't quite figure out why this happened.  It is especially upsetting because up until the attack, I had been absolutely loving every second in this amazing city, and I am angry at those bastards for making me feel otherwise.  Also, it is bitterly ironic that my last post was all about how Nicole and I had walked home alone and blah, blah, blah, so I feel like an absolute idiot now that this has happened to me.  After replaying the scene in my mind 290238490823489290834 times since that night, however, I really don't think that there is anything else I could have done differently...aside from not being there in the first place.  We were not far from her apartment at all, we had not had overindulged in any figurative baby bottles, and we were alert and walking with a purpose.  I think it was just the fact of being at the wrong place at the absolute wrong time.  They spotted us as we crossed the street, probably heard that we were American, and considered us pretty easy targets. 

The best part about this whole mess (insert sarcastic tone here) was that both sets of keys had been taken, and my landlord told me when I moved in that there is absolutely ZERO way of getting in to the apartment without the key unless you break down the huge steel doors ($$$$$$$$$).  That made me feel really safe at the time, and prompted me to be VERY diligent about making sure I ALWAYS had my keys (think: post-it notes around the apartment to remind me to always grab my keys), but it also meant that I was homeless until Sunday night when my landlord's brother (who had a key) would be back from a weekend trip to Monaco. 

Nicole and the lady she lives with were gracious enough to let me stay at their apartment, which was wonderful, but I pretty much had to rock the same clothes all weekend (with a few of items from Nicole's closet because the temperature decided to drop about 75 degrees from last week, however, she is about 6 inches shorter than me, so I will let you use your imagination on that one).  Also, my absolutely incredible mother flew in on Sunday morning to help me pick up the pieces of my life...she is the best!!!!!!!

Reason 92083489023489 I am generally annoyed and pissed off at the situation:
 I had the Paris-Versailles race on Sunday (which, as you may recall, I was diligently training for every day).  I almost didn't run it because my running gear was under lock and key at my apartment, but Mom convinced me to run it anyway so that those two pieces of trash did not get the best of me.  On Saturday, my sugar daddy (AKA Nicole) bought me new running shoes, Adidas leggings, and two dry fit shirts, so I was prepared to run the next day --- she even let me carry around a couple of euros while we were shopping so I didn't feel completely worthless, AND she let me "buy" the Starbucks!  It was a ridiculously hard and hilly course (AND FREEZING!!!!), but I am SO glad I ran it because it was beautiful and it gave me 10 miles to burn off some steam.  Also, Mom was waiting for me in Versailles, so I was pretty pumped about that. 

Reason 92083489023490 I am generally annoyed and pissed off at the situation: 
After sitting down and thinking about everything that they got, we realized it really wasn't that much.  The Blackberry, Sim card, and credit/debit cards were completely deactivated, Eunice was as old as dirt, and I don't know how the Black Market works, but I would think they would have to pay someone to take her, and once my camera died,  I am assuming it have been worthless.  At the end of the day, they got 15 euros and some blank index cards.  So, thank you, (insert multiple choice words that are not at all appropriate for the blog), for completely turning my mom and I's lives upside down for 15 euros and whatever else you found to be "valuable" from my purse.  Thank you for ripping my life out of my arms and tossing it out like garbage so that it can rot in a landfill.  Thank you for turning this incredible opportunity that I have been given into a constant state of terror and paranoia.  There is a very special place for both of you, and one day, you will get what you deserve. 

I truly don't care at all about the money or electronics that they got --- as we have illustrated in the past couple of days, those things are replaceable.  I don't even want to begin to count up the amount of money we have spent (and will spend) to replace those things, but nevertheless, they are replaceable.  The thing I am most devastated about is my journal and the pictures and memories that I had saved on my camera.  I didn't get a chance to tell y'all, but last week was CRAZY in the kitchen at LCB, and I had lots of fun things to share!  I will try and remember them. :(  I have been unsuccessfully trying to rationalize my lost journal...maybe it's cathartic or something to have all of my feelings written down and then released into the unknown world?  Yeah, right.  What am I supposed to do when I write my book and the first month is blank?!  Fortunately, I do have the blog to remind me of some good times, but still, that journal had everything in it.  Also, I know that I can walk down the street and take more pictures, but I liked those pictures.  I specifically remember a couple of times on Friday walking to and from class when I just stopped on the sidewalk to take a picture of the Tower or the leaves because I felt inspired, and I can never get those moments back.

My mom left this morning, and so walking home from class today was really the first time that I have been alone since it happened.  The intense waterworks came about halfway through my walk, and I didn't have any sunglasses to hide the ugly cry face, so who knows what I looked like.  To add to that, I had bags under my eyes, dirty hair, an over-sized jacked, and a death grip on my bag --- even though all of the important stuff is now in a money belt under my clothes --- so I probably looked like a serious hot mess.  Whatever. I don't care.  Fashion goes out the window when you get mugged.  It is just so frustrating that I should even have to hide everything under my clothes.  I shouldn't have to worry every time I walk outside that someone is going to take my stuff or harm me in some way.  It makes me sick to think that there are people out there like that.  

I know this could happened ANYWHERE, so I am trying to not take it out on my beloved city of Paris, but I can't help it...and the fact that I am not surrounded by any of my comforts of home doesn't help my homesickness at all.  I completely stepped out of my comfort zone to come over here in the first place and to try and heal my wounded heart, and now I get this?  Haven't we been through enough this past year?  Can't we get a reprieve or something?? I feel like my spirit has been completely crushed, and the absolute last thing I want to do is stay here for another second.  I am trying to work through that now because I know I can't give up on my goals (by the way, I was accepted into the Intermediate Cuisine and Pastry classes yesterday, so that means I will be coming back in January...I am still trying to process that...I was totally pumped at the prospect of coming back until Friday night), but it is really hard to keep on truckin' here and pretend like everything is okay when it isn't.  I guess I'll just add this to the list of things that I need to deal with and accept.  

Through all of this complaining, I feel very fortunate that neither Nicole nor I were seriously harmed, and I think I had my guardian angel named David watching over me when it happened.  While it was an awful experience to live through, it is strange because I never felt like I was in danger when it happened...I like to think that I have him to thank for that.

As I sit here and try to feel safe in my apartment, I still can't help but feel defeated.  I am going to allow myself the rest of the evening to sulk, and then, when I wake up tomorrow morning, I will have a new outlook on this situation (and poach some fish in my 08:30 practical, but I will tell y'all about that another day).  I will still have to work out all of the details of this mess (i.e. get a new phone, contact the US Embassy, blah, blah, blah), but I will take it one step at a time and work to try to not let them get the best of me.

I heard somewhere that carbs have some sort of chemical in them that causes a temporary high and gets the endorphins pumping or something...or perhaps it is wishful thinking on my part...anyway, I am currently stocked with 1/2 of a baguette, 2 croissants, a half of load of French bread, and rice and pasta a-plenty.  That is actually a lie because I have consumed the baguette since I started writing...anyway, I am going to enjoy my carbs and wine, and get back onto a running schedule tomorrow for my mental health.

Many thanks to y'all for sticking with me through this horrible experience.  Now that I am journal-less, y'all will really get all of my inner thoughts and feelings (get excited!!)...until I start a new one, of course.

- à tout à l’heure